Hi Laura
Just another update on biking travels in Himalaya! 😊
Qulma (Kulma) pass from Tajikistan is now open to foreigners. This connects the Pamir Highway and Karakoram Highway for those who don’t want to go through Pakistan. Also some updates on the Karakoram section to Kashgar.
Qulma pass is open from 10am Tajik time, it takes 2 cycling days from Murghab. First day is on a rough gravel road (not too bad, but makes for quite slow progress). About 47km from Murghab there is a checkpoint and the first border fence. There is a trucker’s hotel right by the checkpoint where one can spend a night. Next day is perfect tarmac up until Qulma pass itself. Tajik border formalities are quick and easy. Chinese border is a nightmare, be prepared for extensive checks and questioning, including downloads of mobile phone contents, etc. Don’t take any photos of the border installations or border guards. Overall it takes 3-4 hours on the Chinese side. The border guard will get a lorry to take cyclists down to the actual immigration checkpoint on the Karakoram Highway (Karasu border post), 15km from the pass. Keep in mind that everyone will tell you (in Murghab and especially in Khorog) that foreigners are not allowed. Don’t listen, they don’t have a clue.
Currency exchange – there is no ATM or currency exchange in either Tajik or Chinese border posts. There is someone around in Karasu who changes Somoni to RMB at a bad rate. Be aware that the closest ATM is either in Tashkurgan or Kashgar, so either arrive with some RMB or be ready to lose 20% on the rate. They don’t accept US Dollars, only Tajik currency.
There is a truckers motel at the Karasu border (big grey building across the road, there is no sign saying it’s a hotel, looks more like a government building), $10 per bed with shower and toilet. Single females – beware, this is a Tajik truckers stop! Ulug Rabat pass is 1.5 hrs cycling from Karasu and Karakol lake another hour from Ulug Rabat. There is currently no accommodation at Karakol lake at all. Only seasonal restaurants. Yurts are no longer an option Karakol to Ghez will take 5-7 hours depending on the winds.
From Karakol to Ghez check point one has to pass by a new huge (and very scenic) man-made lake after Buyun-Kul. The cold water of the lake, coupled with the funnelling affect of the Ghez canyon creates crazy headwinds in the afternoon (reaching up to 70kmh), this makes for a very very slow going on first 15km of descent to Ghez. Afterwards the winds die down and it’s all rolling downhill on a brand new raised highway through some tunnels to Ghez.
Ghez checkpoint, as well as all other checkpoints on the Karakoram, is a very serious affair now, get off your bike and follow the officer’s instructions, go through passport control. Don’t laugh, smile or joke with the guards. It’s all a very serious affair to everyone in Xinjinag. Don’t take your things inside the checkpoint. There are 4 more checkpoints from Ghez to Kashgar, the etiquette of the checkpoints is to get off the bike and go through passport control and X-rays. Never take any luggage inside unless instructed by staff. If you do, be prepared to say goodbye to tools, pocket knives, etc.
There is no accommodation in Ghez and the canyon is too narrow to camp in. One can continue on to villages on the plains (another 50km downhill stroll) or hail a Tajik lorry all the way to Kashgar.
Kind regards
Philip